Strawberries, America's most beloved berries, were once a sure sign of summer. Now thanks to air transport these bright red, seed-speckled berries are available virtually all year long. Present-day American strawberries resulted from the crossbreeding of a wild Virginian strawberry and a Chilean berry over 200 years ago.

Because strawberries are naturally fragile, most supermarket strawberries are varieties that have been developed to withstand shipping and short storage. This has taken some toll on their natural sweetness and flavor, although work has been done to improve the flavor. When locally grown berries are in the market, it is worth the effort to seek them out.

California strawberries are in season about 10 months of the year, taking a brief hiatus in December and January. Florida berries are available from January to May. With Chilean and Mexican crops filling in the gap during winter months, there is an uninterrupted supply. In most of the United States, locally grown berries reach the market in May and June. These berries are generally sweeter than supermarket berries. Look for them at farmers' markets. Frozen berries, either loose-packed or in syrup, are also available.

Look for berries that are shiny, bright red and fragrant. The green caps should be vibrant and the berries should be reasonably clean. Green or pale red berries are underripe. There is nothing you can do to ripen them further. Avoid strawberries with soft spots, mildew or leakage. These are signs of deterioration.

1 pound strawberries = about 1 pint; 2 cups slices.

Strawberries can be refrigerated, unwashed, for up to three days. Or, they may be frozen. To freeze strawberries, hull them and arrange them in a single layer on a jelly-roll pan. Place them in the freezer until they are frozen solid and then transfer them to storage containers. They will keep for up to nine months.

Wash berries quickly under cold running water just before using, with the stem and cap still attached. Do not the soak the berries in water, because they may become waterlogged. Remove the cap using a paring knife or a specialized tool called a strawberry huller. Dry the berries on paper towels. Use them whole or sliced.