Squash, a member of the gourd family, is available in a wide variety of shapes, sizes and colors. In the garden, these plants can be recognized by their long trailing vines, large leaves and handsome blossoms. Squashes are native to the Western Hemisphere and have been an important source of food and medicine to Native Americans for thousands of years. Today it is commercially grown in most states, Florida being the leader. This vegetable can be divided into two categories, summer squash and winter squash.

Summer squashes are harvested when immature. They have edible skins, small soft seeds and a mild, delicate flavor. Their flesh has a high water content and cooks quickly. The different types can easily be interchanged in recipes.

Some of the most common varieties are listed here.

Pattypan is a bowl-shaped squash with a scalloped rim. It is 3 to 4 inches in diameter and pale green or white in color.

Yellow crookneck squash has a slender curved neck and a slight bulbous base.

Yellow straight-neck squash, a related variety, has a straight, slender shape, yellow skin and creamy flesh.

Zucchini is a straight, slender dark green squash with creamy flesh. See Zucchini entry for additional information.

Summer squashes are available all year in supermarkets, but summer is their peak season. Look for the crookneck variety at farmers' markets.

Choose small to medium-size squashes that are firm with smooth, glossy unblemished skins. They should feel heavy for their size. Large squashes are less tender.

1 pound summer squash = 3 medium; 2-1/2 cups chopped; 1-2/3 cups cooked.

Refrigerate summer squashes, unwashed, in a plastic bag for up to five days.

Wash squash under cold running water. Do not peel. Trim off and discard both ends. Cut into chunks or slices. Summer squashes are generally steamed, sautéed, grilled, stir-fried, and breaded or battered and panfried.

Winter squashes are harvested in the fall when they are mature. They will keep for a month or two because of their thick, hard shells. They need to be peeled and the seeds removed before eating. Their flavor and texture vary widely so they can not be easily interchanged in recipes.

Some of the most common varieties are listed here.

Acorn squash has an acorn shape and weighs from one to three pounds. The skin is dark green with patches of orange and the flesh is a deep orange. It has a sweet flavor.

Butternut squash, which weighs from two to five pounds, is cylindrical with a slight bulbous base. The skin is creamy tan and the flesh is a yellowish-orange. The flavor is sweet and slightly nutty.

Hubbard squash is large (about 10 pounds) with a grayish-green to bright orange bumpy skin and a yellowish-orange grainy flesh.

Spaghetti squash, which weighs from three to five pounds, is oblong with creamy yellow skin and pale yellow flesh. It gets its name because the flesh separates into spaghettilike strands when cooked.

Turban squash has, as its name suggests, a turban-shaped top. The hard, bumpy shell varies greatly in color from orange to green to yellow. Although they can be cooked, they are often used for decoration.

Winter squashes are usually available all year with peak season from September to March. Some varieties are difficult to find in summer.

Choose squashes that are heavy for their size with hard, thick shells. Avoid those with any signs of decay, soft spots or cuts in the shells.

1 pound winter squash = 1 cup cooked and mashed.

Store whole unwashed squashes in a cool (50°F), dry, dark place with good ventilation for up to two months. Smaller varieties do not keep as long as larger ones. Do not wrap them or place them in a plastic bag. Wrap cut pieces securely in plastic food wrap and refrigerate for up to five days.

Rinse with cold running water. Cut squash into halves or quarters. Remove and discard the seeds. Cut into cubes or slices for baking, boiling or steaming. Winter squashes may also be baked or microwaved whole or cut into halves. Butternut squash can be peeled, then cubed and added to soups or stews during the last 15 minutes of cooking.