These bright coral-red, leathery-skinned fruits are a sure sign of fall. Cultivated for centuries, probably first in Persia or Afghanistan, pomegranates were a symbol of fertility to early Greeks. Pomegranate juice was used historically for medicinal purposes and as a dye. Once the skin is broken, the fruit yields an abundance of garnet-colored seeds that are juicy and flavorful. They have a tantalizing, sweet-and-sour taste. They are notorious for their ability to stain the skin and clothing. Wear rubber gloves while handling them and proceed with caution as the juice can squirt and splatter as the seeds pop open.

• Primarily used for eating out of hand in this country, the edible seeds are also used as a garnish for salads and baba ghanouj, a Middle Eastern eggplant relish.
• Pomegranate juice can be used in marinades, sherbets, ices and sauces.
• Grenadine syrup was originally flavored and colored with pomegranate juice, but today the syrup is more likely to include artificial flavor and color instead.

The California supply of pomegranates begins to enter markets in September, peaks in October and November and continues through the winter holidays.

A firm, heavy fruit with a rich, even color is the best choice. A shiny skin is an indication of a waxy coating; in their natural state, the skin has a dull patina. Avoid fruits that are broken or have soft spots.

1 (4-inch) pomegranate = about 1 cup of seeds or 3/4 cup juice.

The leathery skin protects pomegranates, allowing them to be stored for up to a week at room temperature or two months in the refrigerator. The juice and seeds can be frozen for several months.

Preparation is almost always limited to extracting seeds or juice from the fruit. Both tasks are somewhat labor intensive although worth the effort. To remove seeds, lightly score the skin from top to bottom. Peel back the skin, taking care not to pop the seeds. As the seeds are exposed, remove them from the bitter membrane with your fingers.

To juice, roll the fruit around on the counter, pressing lightly with the palm of your hand. This releases some of the juice. Then, carefully cut the fruit in half crosswise and gently press the halves onto a citrus juicer to extract the juice. Do not exert too much force or the membrane will add a bitter taste to the juice.